Newly opened TerraGusto is owned and operated by Theo Gilbert, a fixture at the Wednesday Green City Market where he sells his handmade pastas. The concept couldn't be simpler-- have a storefront selling his artisanal pastas, other products from Green City Market vendors, and where one can also sit down for a simple cafe-style lunch or dinner with local, fresh-made everything (as much as possible).
I've been three times and with the exception of a few, minor, new-opening glitches, the prepared food has been very, very good. The menu reflects the simplicity-- 5 or 6 antipasti and 5 or 6 hand-made pastas with paired sauce.
Outstanding apps were a smoked wild salmon mousse on crostini, and Bagna Cauda, a paste of cooked garlic, anchovies, butter, and olive oil, which is then stuffed into a roasted red pepper. A special one night was Conchiglie con passato di ceci, seared scallops sitting on a pureed bed of chick peas, tomato, and rosemary. The sauce was so good it deserved its own pasta. The sauce was so good, the scallops were a distraction.
Pastas were almost uniformly great. Tagliatelle alla bolognese was classically rich and creamy with a thick ribbon noodle in a 4-meat, milk, and tomato sauce. There are also ricotta-stuffed ravioli in a light broth with wilted spinach. Theo says he makes his own ricotta daily. I also loved the Maltagliate ai funghi di bosco, "badly cut" pasta rags in a mushroom ragù. My favorite are probably the squash & pumpkin filled ravioli in a browned butter and sage sauce, finished with crumbled amaretti.
Least favorite was probably the swiss chard pasta somewhat alla primavera, tossed with fresh and roasted vegetables. Maybe in the summer I'll come back around to it.
The best deal on the menu might be the offerings for "a little something more." For $12, you can add either a ½ lb. chicken, a ½ lb. skirt steak, a wild catch of the day, or a 10 oz. pork chop-- either as a side or tossed with an appropriate pasta.
I think his plans are to be open all day long, from 7 am until 10 pm. It could be a nice place to get a good cappuccino and pastry in the morning.
BYOB all the time, with no corkage fee. I didn't ask about making your own irish latte in the morning. No cell phones. Nice, comfortable, low-key neighborhood place.
TerraGusto
1851 W. Addison, at Wolcott
773.248.2777
Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (I'm not sure about these closed days.)
Alfonso