We spent a little more time on our next vacation, and drove seven hours to Mammoth Cave National Park, an incredibly beautiful, extremely wild park in the middle of South Central Kentucky. What's most amazing about this park is that the area surrounding it is so wild that (except for the small touristy area off the highway) it's difficult to tell where the park ends and "civilization" begins, though it has 80 square miles on the surface, and untold miles underneath (last count was over 300.) There is an awful lot of virgin forest left in Kentucky, in part due to the often inhospitable topography called
"Karst," which is a landscape formed by the dissolution of soluble rock, in this case limestone - often, in karst areas, water disappears into subterranean lakes and rivers, and is especially
susceptible to pollution as the water enters through fairly direct routes. Between the difficulty of obtaining fresh water, the sinkholes, and the rocky ground, this part of Kentucky is still relatively undeveloped, dotted with smaller farms (and an increasing Amish population.) The park is home to an incredible number of animals...many of them edible, but (sigh) protected: we saw several flocks of wild turkeys that put Butterball to shame (I've never seen such huge wild turkeys) and the deer walked around the campsite completely ignoring people, bicycles, and cars alike (is it wrong that when I look at wildlife I automatically envision food, as though I'm
Tom the cat?)
All that being said, Mammoth Cave National Park is breathtaking. I don't need 1,000 words.
I'm pretty sure this is the structure that Seth Zurer referred to as "Cave bacon" - sadly, in real life it didn't look very bacon-y:
But this one looked just like an open pita pocket, moreso than the picture indicates:
You don't need a license to fish on park property, and we did go fishing, but caught only a couple little bluegill (well, OK,
I didn't catch anything and Sparky didn't want to come, so perhaps
we is not the correct pronoun)...though it was pretty exciting to fish at the junction of a small car ferry and a subterranean river! Sadly, the charming ferry will soon be no more (though I'm betting the local population is thrilled) on our last day of the trip it was closed for the surveying team.
As is indicated above, traipsing through sandstone caverns made me really hungry and hot - even if it was only 54 degrees (kind of like being in a restaurant whose air-conditioner is on too high) So, on to our one new groundbreaking outdoor culinary discovery: Campsite frozen yogurt. Using
David Lebowitz's Frozen Vanilla Yogurt recipe, subbing homemade vanilla sugar for vanilla extract to make packing easier, I loaded up the
Ice Cream Ball and set Sparky and his little camping companions to "work" playing
Wonderball.The wonderball goes round and round,
To pass it quickly you are bound,
If you're the one to hold it last,
Then for you the game is passed,
And You - Are - Out! In short order, the gloppy mess of Greek yogurt and sugar became lovely light frozen vanilla yogurt, beautiful to behold. Plus it kept the kids occupied for half an hour, especially since I kept singing to whatever pace they were passing - I need to learn Homaru Cantuspeak so next time I can sing backwards when they reverse direction!
We also visited the little nearby town of Horse Cave, home of what's now called "Hidden River Cave" which is right spang in the middle of the business district. I wish I had a better shot, it's quite shocking to see the old Bank and Trust on the other side of the street and just a giant open hole right next to you.
The 'spouse and the friend we went with had spent a few summers in the early nineties working with what's now the
Kentucky Repertory Theatre built immediately over the mouth of this cave (surprisingly, he hadn't been inside.) There's also a very nice museum containing good information about geology, ecology and the history of the entire area including a chronicle of the "cave wars," including the unfortunate death of
Floyd Collins (which offered us the opportunity to track down the little Kentucky graveyard that was his final resting place to pay our respects) The town we all remembered had been hard hit by both the recession and the sudden downturn in the tobacco market - it looked like it had begun to bounce back when this recession hit. As a consequence, some beautiful startup businesses opportunities exist (sorry, my camera battery died here)
And some of the existing businesses are moonlighting a bit (the small sign says
cash for scrap gold:)
For one lunch, after a long hike and a cave tour, we defied the Mike G. rule and ate at the Travertine Restaurant just off the visitor's center...and proved the rule. If you're in our situation, have anything with country ham in it - except the Hot Brown (which shouldn't anyway.) The country ham and cheese sandwich was quite good, if on uncharacteristically squishy rye bread, but the slice of ham had lovely chunks of fried pork fat. The rest of the food was beyond awful: especially, you are forewarned to stay away from the hot dogs.
I leave you with a moment of zen: