Well, the day finally came and they have in fact opened. I had not planned on bothering with being part of the opening day shake out, but my boss was in the office today and wanted to go for lunch, so we decided to give it a go.
At lunch, at least, the menu is simple; one side has some appetizers and such, and the other side is burgers. I thought the signage said 24 kinds, but I only counted 20 -- five each in categories "cheeesy" [sic], "world", "pseudo", and "wild" The "pseudo" category is one kind of non-beef -- chicken, catfish, a couple of others, and the "wild" is more non-beef: duck, lamb, kangaroo, ostrich, and wild boar. I didn't spend much time looking at the other two sections, but one of my party ordered an "Italian."
I opted for the Wild Boar, on recommendation from the server. It was ground boar with gouda and bacon. It was more cooked than the "medium" that they said it would be (I deferred to the chef because I wasn't sure what the "right" doneness should be for boar.) In the end, it didn't taste much different from a mildly fancy cheese burger -- the flavor of the boar was not very prominent, especially amidst the gouda and bacon. It was fine, but not something I'd consider worth the $13 price tag. (The non-wild burgers were more like $8-10 a pop)
The burger was accompanied by large rough-cut skin on fries which were uninspired, as well as a pretty good cole slaw and some kind of minced pickle thing which was also a pleasant accompaniment. I also opted for the recommended beer pairing, which was a Schenkerla smoked wheat beer. I enjoyed the beer itself a little more than I thought I would, but was not particularly impressed by the pairing.
Service was inarguably rough, no doubt aggravated by the first day, but also reminiscent of the inevitable long waits we experienced back when this was a straight-up Leona's location. It was the stuff of legend how long our server would go MIA in the middle of our meal, even when the place was dead.
As for the beer front, despite the hype, they only have four beers on draft, and I think I counted 26 bottles. I was hoping for something on a par with the Hopleaf, or at least Prairie Moon or something. Sorry, they only had a couple of beer lists floating around the entire dining room, and I didn't get much of a chance to lock any of them into memory.
I'm sure I'll be back -- the food was at least as good as Leona's, and it's the closest place to my office with table service, so there inevitably be pragmatic occasions to land there -- but based on one visit, I am not going to tell all of you to hightail it down to River North to check it out -- not unless you're just looking for the pleasure of my company for a meal or a beer after work!
Joe G.
"Whatever may be wrong with the world, at least it has some good things to eat." -- Cowboy Jack Clement