Seth, the pedestrian-sounding "noodles with meat sauce" is somewhat more like what many other places call dan dan mein. Katy's gives you a big scoop of the ragu, along with a lovely julienne of cucumber. The "dan dan mein" at Katy's adds that delicious pink broth and greens. I like both.
You've highlighted again what is so great about Katy's -- the skill and uncompromised product. In a simple bowl of noodles with meat sauce you enjoy the results of several disparate talents -- the noodle making, the perfectly balanced, long-cooked ragu, the knife skills of the person who cuts thousands of perfect cucumber matchsticks a day to serve with 5 buck bowls of noodles.
I wish I could find a Bolognese half this good at three times the price.
PS, on Saturday afternoon, a steady stream of Chinese customers came and went, largely following the same pattern: sit for a quick bowl of noodles, leave with massive quantities of frozen dumplings and a container or two of the refrigerated specials. I enjoy the dumplings very much. I know they get a mixed reception here, and they are certainly not of the delicate, Hong Kong variety. But given the traffic, it seems clear that Katy's is giving people the taste of home, if home is the Westmont of Beijing.
Finally, something to avoid at Katy's -- the stuff served over rice. I grabbed some beef stew on rice for a change of pace. You don't even have to taste the dish to know that this part of the menu is offered as some sort of concession. It looks like a big bowl of disdain, with huge, awkward chunks of green pepper and Americanized Chinese squiggle-cut carrots. I don't subscribe to the "if it's offered it should be good" school of thought on this; you have to gamble to win, and this was a long-shot. If it involves pasta or it's in the fridge, you're safe. Otherwise, you've been warned.
PPS, while the pork is very good, the takeout duck is outstanding. We buy a lot of ducks on Argyle and in Chinatown for my duck-crazy 6 year old, and I find most ducks to be like
most rib tips -- a lot of flavor, bone, and fat, but little meat. Katy's ducks must look like turkeys, given the amount of meat you get.
The owner was clueless regarding his status on LTH and the recent writeup in TOC. Ironic that TOC staff is talking the 'discovery' up on public radio as the folks at Katy's cook on, unaware. Katy's cooking is a great publicist.
Anyway, I said I would bring in some clippings next time I'm out that way, and the owner was very enthusiastic. Not sure when next I will be in the 'burbs, so I'd encourage others to beat me to it.