Dinner this Saturday (March 31) at Bonsoiree was a very pleasant experience, from the moment we entered the small but elegantly put-together dining room, to the last bite of our dessert. Service was slow - perhaps slower than it had to be, as our five course meal took almost 2.5 hours, and some courses were brought out at an agonizingly slow pace (although we were both very tired and very hungry; YMMV). In the end, and with each dish, we were highly satisfied.*
As a preliminary note, the Saturday "underground" dinners are five courses, prix fixe. However, Bonsoiree is open for dinner regularly, and they regularly offer a 7-course tasting menu at $65 or thereabouts. The "underground" meals are smaller and cheaper, but you don't have to be on their mailing list to come in for
menus like this one. And, as noted by others above, Bonsoiree is strictly BYOB.**
Our menu centered on fish, and Bonsoiree certainly had procured fine examples of the pescatory persuasion for our delectation this Saturday. Openers consisted of an amuse, a wedding-reception style miniature quiche filled with minced shrimp and topped with a startling but tasty dose of herbs (sage and chives, I think).
The first real course was a martini glass filled with exquisitely good tuna (described on the menu [with my comments] as "Kona kampachi tartare, scallion bias [that meant scallions cut at an oblique angle, not, as I had hoped, a moto-style laser printed screed of green onion bigotry], and chili-sesame wonton [a hot, sweet and crispy wafer I'd liked to have had a bowlful at that point]"). The fish was impressive, as was the mix of spice, sweet and savory (hmm...that's an interestingly apposite comparison, that others have made).
Next up, manila clams floating in a neutral base of vegetable broth and embraced by slippery rice noodles. These were the type of clams I never expect to find in Chicago: fresh, light in flavor, tender and without the "stale clam funk" that some may like, I abhor, and all agree is concomitant with clams served in Chicago. Most places, at least, and not at Bonsoiree this Saturday. The broth was almost without flavor, a good choice, as it absorbed and carried through the flavor of the delicate little morsels of bivalve. My only complaint was that the soup was served a bit cooler than I prefer, but as I observed, this too may have been intentional, as this was a soup you had to reach into to pull out the clams, so too hot may have created its own set of problems.
Third course was a salad of mizuna in vinaigrette, served with tiny bay scallops (perfect flavor, wish they'd serve a dozen more of them) and pickled radish slices that were funky and tasty, but maybe a bit too much of a match for the flavor profile of a scallop. Am I the only person who thinks restaurants are getting too creative when they overwhelm the delicate sweet scallop with hot peppers, sugary syrups, aromatic pickled vegetables and the like? In any event, the scallops were show stealers in this dish, and I appreciated getting some roughage.
Main course was sake-glazed wild striped bass [skin-on, so you saw the stripes!], sauteed shiimeiji mushrooms [almost too cute to eat, but delicious], cipollini onions and roasted baby carrot. A bit too much butter coated all of it (although that did make the carrots palatable to Mrs. JiLS, who claimed never to have eaten a cooked carrot she liked before this meal). The bass was the star on this plate, extremely fresh, moist, tender and artfully prepared. I would go back for this one any day.
Dessert consisted of a vanilla cake genoise, surrounded by four dollops of green-tea enhanced creme Anglaise and "abstract sugars," which in this instance meant a little row-boat oar shaped sugar paddle, which was a bit hard to eat (lots of sucking and resisting the urge to bite), but rewarded with a strong and seductive smoky dark caramel flavor. The cake itself was one of the better desserts I've eaten in a while, being a horizontally-bisected cylinder of firm, moist sponge cake, filled with the afore-alluded to gingery sauce and being, essentially, a grown up's Twinkie. I am all for Twinkies of any sort; this one is now my favorite.
The meal was finished with a very good cup of coffee (I expected a little better from a place that is, during the day, a coffee shop ... but I'm not complaining, it was plenty good with the Twinkie).
Total bill, with tax and tip, was $126. That's not a huge bargain, but it's certainly a fair price for what we had and the care with which it was prepared and served. Bonsoiree is offering another, solid option for imaginative dinners, made from high-quality ingredients in an informal environment. Very much like Sweets & Savories, or Lula not trying to compete with Schwa; a nice addition to the mix. And their silverware is better than Lula's, too.
* There was a brief discussion with one of the chefs on our entry, begun when he asked how we had heard of Bonsoiree's "underground" dinners. I answered truthfully and candidly, referring in some detail to the "little exchange" with the enthusiastic friend of the restaurant that got Bonsoiree off on the wrong foot with some of the folks here at LTHForum. He took it well, and mentioned that other self-identified LTHers had been and were scheduled to come to future dinners.
** Shockingly, Mrs. JiLS and I decided to go for an alcohol-free dinner at Bonsoiree, availing ourselves of various "Grown Up Sodas" (the pomegranate, which is a fantastic and complex soda, if that word can be used regarding a soda). The irony of that decision became apparent when, 10 minutes after we were seated, who should arrive for dinner but the proprietress of my local wine and gourmet shop,
Provenance. Guess who was struck comical when his table appeared devoid of wine. Like seeing your marriage counselor at the Admiral, we both just smiled and tried to ignore each other's presence.
JiLS