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 Post subject: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 8:15 am 
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So my dining partner and myself are sitting around late Saturday afternoon deciding whether to fire up the grill, rummage through the fridge for fixin's, or dining out. Saturday is smoked salmon and smoked baked potato night at Brobeck's BBQ (105th and Roe, across the street south from Suburban Lawn and Garden), so we head over there instead of cooking. Just before turning into the lot, I see a hand made sign for a "Gran Opening" (sic) El Cipote, etc. This place used to be called Fiesta Mexicana and is across from Brobeck's to the west, sharing the same little parking lot. This evening they had a blue banner hung to partly obscure the old name, and again, proclaiming their opening.

Pupuseria? I know that is central American fare, although I couldn't remember exactly what they were anymore. We punted Brobeck's (that night only-we love that place) and went in the pupuseria looking for something new and tasty. We found it.

Pupusas, for the uninitiated, are masa patties stuffed with stuff and fried. We tried Revuelta, Chicharron with (fresh) cheese and locoro, and just the cheese and locoro. They were served with a cole slaw looking stuff of shredded cabbage and carrots(?) and a squeeze bottle of reddish, translucent reddish sauce that I kind of recognized from a place that use to be at about 74th and Wornall years and years ago. (The proprietress of that place was central American also).

These little greasy patties were heavenly. Just what the doctor ordered. The crunch of the "slaw", a little tang from the sauce, contrasting with the fried masa-ness and filling made for a fantastic combo of flavor and texture. With that success, we decided to stretch out and give the other stuff a try. Homemade melon drink, Horchata, a whole fried Tilapia, steak and shrimp kabobs, one of those huge tamales wrapped in the green leaves, and thick little handmade tortillas. All very good to outstanding.

I was in the mood for fried sweet plaintain, and they have plantain pictured in the breakfast section, so I asked for some. Apparently dredging them in sugar before cooking is more of a Carribean thing. they were also somewhat confused by me wanting them with my dinner - to the point that she came back and asked me if I wanted an entree of them. After we got it sorted out that I wanted a side order, they came out fresh and hot, sprinkled with sugar (after cooking) and delicious.

We've only had the one sampling last Saturday, their first day open. We sat at the bar and were doted on while the two ladies cooking would peek out from the server window and smile at us. So, we have no clue how the service is really going to be, but the food is good and well prepared at this point. Definitely worth checking out, especially for the area (I-435 and Roe) which boasts practically NO hispanic fare.

El Cipote Restaurant y Pupuseria
4671 Indian Creek Parkway
Overland Park, KS 66207
816.695.8605 (cell phone?)


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 9:53 pm 
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Update:

Dining companion and I took her daughter to El Cipote this evening. Proprietress indicated that they were actually busy at lunch today. Good to hear.

Pupusas were even better than last time. Not as greasy. I just love the chicharron with queso and loroco.

We also tried their beef guisado tonight. Beef chunks just melted when hit with a fork and the broth(?) was rich and flavorful. Could have used a few more vegetables in the mix, but it was still a very good dish with a real home made feel to it. Becca said "this is like someone's grandma would make".

We're putting this place in the regular rotation.


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 9:38 am 
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Sounds similar to El Pulgarcito in Merriam - it is Salvadoran

5921 Merriam Dr
Shawnee, KS 66203
(913) 384-3887


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 10:42 am 
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Posts: 80
Yes, sounds very very similar. We'll probably have to go check them out too. I think I know the building. Was a decent Mexican place for while too. Bulding is set back from the road bit. Gravel lot. Of course, that close to Grandstand Burgers, my truck just heads naturally for the burgers!


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 6:40 am 
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Posts: 125
Thanks for the tip - love pupusas and guisado. A bit off the beaten path but I will make a pilgrimmage.


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 7:00 am 
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Posts: 480
helmstran wrote:
Sounds similar to El Pulgarcito in Merriam - it is Salvadoran

5921 Merriam Dr
Shawnee, KS 66203
(913) 384-3887


Good call. Here's an account of an El Pulgarcito visit from about a year and a half ago:

***

Very enjoyable spot, this. Stopped in for lunch with the boys last weekend, and over-ordered as usual.

After reading Rene G's post on Monja Blanca just the day before, the specials certainly sounded intriguing.

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How could I resist the pacayas?

ImageImage

I didn't finish them, though I ate most of one and cut the other into a bunch of pieces and shoved a bunch of stuff around on the plate to make it look like I enjoyed it. Even chiles rellenos are hard to do right, not just a grease bomb, and I like chiles. The pacayas were very bitter and the grease and heavy cheese filling didn't adequately balance as, say, some bitter melon dishes do. Not a big fan, but these were frozen. I'm definitely curious to see others' experience with this veggie.

The pupusas, luckily, were excellent, thick with ample filling.

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I hadn't had a loroco-filled pupusa before, which I rather enjoyed, though I was mistakenly told it was the same as flor de calabaza. It had a more bitter note, compared to squash blossoms, but in this case, I thought it was set off well by the rest of the pupusa.

The curtido also struck me as unusually bitter, though tasty and clearly homemade.

Image

I guess they really like things bitter here. I'm not sure how characteristic that is of Salvadoran tastes. If so, it strikes me as somewhat unique among Central American cuisines.

The folks here were very friendly, and an older gentleman (who I presume to be the owner) hurried over shortly after we arrived to extol the virtues of the baked chicken special. I may try that yet, but it will be hard to pass on the pupusas. A nice entry in the booming Merriam, KS dining scene.

***


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:31 pm 
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Just finished up lunch with The DLC at El Cipote. I'm extremely impressed with this place. We sampled a handful of things, starting with an orden de platanos on the back side of the menu. I imagine this is what Doug described above, though the sugar seemed to be added before the saute rather than sprinkled on afterwards. These babies offered a wonderful textural contrast between the sweet creamy center and the crispy caramelized exterior. The top-notch crema for dipping or drizzling was simply gilding the lily. Of a few photos I took of our foodstuffs, this is the only one that was particularly appetizing:

Image

I hadn't but polished off one or two of these, when next to our table came a pastel de carne and a tamal de cerdo. I'm not sure if the usage of cerdo rather than puerco is regional Spanish, or if there is a substantive difference, though the word was new to me. And so was the tamale...this thing was a beauty, a largish log wrapped in a banana leaf, the masa showing the characteristic moistness of Central American tamales. And the pork...wow. "Unctuous" is the word that comes to mine, so meltingly tender, but with terrific body and great pork flavor, cooked on the bone, though I didn't get much bone in my half. This was a really well-crafted tamale.

The meat pie/pastel de carne was essentially a ground beef empanada, some small potato pieces mixed in I think. Spicing was subtle (as is customary for many South and Central American meat preparations) but the package was hot, fresh, and fried just right. There was something slightly unfamiliar about the pastry, though I ate it too quickly to reflect much on what it was...a cornmeal dusting, perhaps?

The pupusas were served last, one loroco (described here as zucchini) and the other revuelta (I think a bean and cheese mixture). Perhaps because I'd already eaten enough food for lunch by this time, but I was less excited about the pupusas than the other offerings. Which isn't to say they weren't excellent--the pancake was delicate and the filling was hot and fresh. Seasoning, again, was minimal, but the curtido and hot sauce were a delightful complement. I may ask for a pupusa to come out first next time. Good, but not the draw of the other items.

The service was charming, and the interior was surprisingly nice and new looking. Our server happily (at least it seemed that way) allowed us to order one each of the meat pies and tamales, though they're offered in pairs on the back page antojito menu.

They weren't busy, and I can see why, as this place gives new meaning to "tucked away in the corner of a strip mall."

Image

See the empty looking space between Two the Point and Naturally Chiropractic? With the barely visible blue banner? Yeah, that's the one. It may not look open, but don't let that stop you. I believe the hours are 11am-9:00pm most days (or maybe all). I haven't eaten that broadly in south JoCo, but I can't think of any place I've yet visited in that neck of the woods that I'm certain to return to (and soon) besides El Cipote. I hope their letters come in soon.

(Also, they offer a lot of Mexican items, which they seem to believe are what people want, and I'm sure they're right. They may be very good too, but the sense I got was that the Salvadoran stuff is what they really know how to do well.)

Thanks for the recommendation, Doug, I'm really glad to have heard of this place, which would have undoubtedly remained off my radar for who knows how long.


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:12 pm 
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Glad to hear you liked it! We've become regulars. It's literally 10 minutes from us.

One menu item we've locked on are the empanadas from the list of "appetizers" on the back on the menu. These are made with plantain "dough" and filled with sweetened beans or "leche" that appears to be sweeetned, thickened milk and rice mixture. Fried and rolled in sugar, these little treats are an awesome dessert. I'm especially fond of the bean filled ones.

Another treat we've been enjoying is their Garnaches. Similar to what I've been served as a gordita in some places, they are small, thick masas patties fired leathery/crisp and topped with chopped meat, the shredded cabbage/carrots and parmesean cheese.

We are almost always taken care of by Patricia, whom I take to be one of the folks in charge. She reports that lunch business is up. If they can deliver any reasonable level of service for a luch crowd, they should do fine. They've already done some flyer drops across the highway with hotels and offices and are getting some folks in the door with that.


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Posts: 480
Had lunch here again today, some new items and some repeats.

Added to the plus list:

The fried yucca was crisp, light, and fluffy...impressive preparation given how dry and starchy fried yucca can turn out. Served with crisp chunks of pork belly and a nice bed of curtido.

The empanadas de leche were also a winner. The pasteles (which I've had previously) are more like what I would have thought to be an empanada: meat wrapped in pastry. The empanadas here use mashed plantains for the "pastry" component, and the "leche" seemed to be a rice pudding filling. The whole thing was browned and dusted with sugar. It's listed under antojitos, but it sure seems like dessert to me. Either way, it's terrific.

[Edit to add: I'd read Doug's post above after he posted it, but forgot before I posted this. Sorry for the redundancy.]


I was less enamored of the garnachas, kind of like little fried masa boats topped with lightly seasoned ground or shredded beef/onion and topped with lettuce and parmesan from a can. I don't like the parm-from-can dishes so much.

Again, I found the pupusas more corny and less oily than those at Sabor Centroamericano and El Pulgarcito--I can see how someone might like that, but I really like the caramelized, greasy, cheesy component to my pupusa.

Also, I noticed in The Star recently that this places was called El Cipote II. Turns out #1 is located in Grandview, which doesn't help me much, but may help someone else. And also helps explain how such a polished operation appeared out of nowhere in South JoCo.

El Cipote Restaurant I
841 Longview Rd
Kansas City, MO
(816) 767-8175


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 Post subject: Re: El Cipote Restaurant and Pupuseria
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:23 pm 
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