I was tipped off to the pork tenderloin at Kitty's a year ago by goroe over on Chowhound
, who also brought it up over lunch later last fall. The good folks at Manifesto
rhapsodized about a couple weeks ago. Still, given it's longevity, Kitty's seems to me to fly a bit under the radar.
A framed 1987 New York Times
article describes a sandwich very much like the one I ate last week, and it was terrific.
I don't usually care for pork tenderloin sandwiches, even when they're freshly made. They're large and unwieldy, often so large that either the toppings are spare in proportion to the patty or generous enough to turn the whole plate into a giant knife-and-fork mess. Kitty's sandwich is delicate in comparison, though plenty substantial. Each of the three patties seems a bit thinner than it looks above. They appear to be battered rather than fried, and the vertical extension of a stacked sandwich (rather than the horizontally huge hubcap-sized version) works from a tactile and flavor standpoint.
I inquired of the Thai gentleman working the counter about the distinctive hot sauce that topped the sandwich (along with the usual lettuce and tomato) and he returned with a red, dried Thai chili. You gotta respect a greasy spoon that prepares their own hot chili sauce.
Fries were crinkle cut, frozen. Remainder of menu was standard fare, a couple breakfast items that intrigue. Only about 8 stools for seating, seemed to be doing a brisk business at lunch, with a few folks lingering at their counter seats. Bruce Watkins makes Kitty's (exit 31st) an easily accessible lunch from downtown, and lunch hours are it. It's too bad, too, because one of these sandwiches would be killer after a long night on Martini Corner. Based on what I saw, though, they're not missing the business.
810 1/2 E. 31 St. (just east of 31st & Charlotte)
Kansas City, MO 64109