Tried Apart yesterday. They are not trying to do what Spacca Napoli, Frasca, Follia, or DOC do. This is a modest, takeout-only storefront selling pies to the Little League kids and Bosnian bocce players in lovely Welles Park (could there be a better place for a pizza stand? How about some good ice cream?). Delivery is hot and free.
I thought the pizza was very good. The 650 degree oven does not result in charred bubbles like those made by hotter forni around town, but the paper-thin (not at all crackery) pizzas are delicious. They are also a good deal at 15 bucks or so for a basic 18" pie.
Apart's pizza might be Chicago's best current example of the standard
NY-Neapolitan style, answering for now that oft asked question in my mind. Much better, in my opinion, than Santullo's for example. It's somewhat ironic given that this is the one new pizza place run by a actual Italians (albeit from Bolzano, I think he said, which is as geographically near the ancestral home of flamme küche).
All of the sudden, we have quite a few solid to great nontraditional (for Chicago, that is) pizza options. I'm glad that I live right in the middle of the slice described by SN, Frasca and Apart. Quite a diverse and robust pizza scene, no?
PS, I should mention that Apart has an LTH quote from this string on its menu, which I asked about. The owner stated that there has been a notable, positive "LTH effect" already.
Last edited by JeffB
on May 22nd, 2006, 11:17 am, edited 1 time in total.