I really want to love this place with its affable ownership, unique business model, and unapologetic approach to authentic seasoning and ingredient sourcing + I like supporting a younger generation of business owners.
But in two tries, none of the food has particularly stood out to me. And perhaps its due to my issue with the three dish format. Since these dishes all lean on the saucy side, they kind of run together on the plate (and no, I'm not one of those freaky food separators). With dishes this complexly seasoned, I like to savor them on their own, a bite at a time. And indeed there are a lot of intense flavors going on, which I appreciate. I have seen images of the dishes, elsewhere online, served individually in bowls, but I have yet to crack that ordering code.
And speaking of the ordering method, it seems like they are still waffling on the issue. We were handed menus (which included the dishes available on the steam table) and a waitress took our order as we stood there. I then found it odd that I witnessed other diners ordering directly off the line & being handed their plates right away. We ordered a few things cooked-to-order which were served before our steam table fare, which then took a good 30 minutes to arrive at the table.
Back to the food. Highlights have been the funky bamboo preps and fish balls. The sauces are definitely complex and deep. Oddly though, a few of the curries I ordered on this last trip were under-sauced (while still blurring together on the plate). The plates seem to arrive hastily composed– I know I just said I dig the bamboo dishes, but the last round of sour shoots and chicken in red curry had a ratio of about 8:1 bamboo to chicken and same was true of a real oddball (dayglo green!) veg dish of bamboo, 3 kinds of mushroom, ya-nang, & cha-om. It was like 80% bamboo, had a few tiny mushrooms, and barely any of the exotic veg. And the noodles– cold and overcooked on both trips. I should have warned my dining companion, he barely touched them.
Made-to-order dishes have fared better. Chunky nugs of Isaan sausage, charred pork collar, and the best dish on the table, deep fried chicken skin, which was really not very sophisticated, served simply with Shark brand sriracha.
And finally, it really pains me to admit this, but some of their dishes actually push the limits of my Western palate. The funk starts to turn a corner towards the rank. My buddy orderd Jiew Pak Pang (Northern Thai soup with vine spinach and naem). He asked me to take a bite and tell him what it reminded me of. Pond scum, it was like accidentally getting a mouthful of water from a less-than-pristine swimming hole. I know that there is a whole spectrum of fermented-to-rotten flavors that us gringos are not accustomed to and its not the fish guts curry I'm talking about, I like that. I also dig nam prik kapi. But that soup, in particular, just really tasted gross to me. I guess I met my match on that one.
I'm not ready to give up on this place. Maybe once they iron out a more transparent ordering process, I'll find it easier to piece together a meal to my liking.