Let’s be frank: I struggle with Chicago pizza and, trust me, no one in this town wants to like its pizza more than I. But as a life long Chicagoan, this never-ending pursuit is like trying to find the Holy Grail. At this point, I can’t take these continuous disappointments anymore. My only solution is to periodically try some highly touted pizzerias and hope for the best.
This week, I tried 2 such Chicago pizzerias; Candlelite and Romano’s.
Let’s start off with the goods news about Candlelite; the sausage is decent if not good. Nice tasty chunks with an appealing amount of fennel.
Moreover, the pizza was cooked about as perfectly as one could expect. Whenever a pizzeria can successfully make a crispy, wafer-thin crust and top it with disproportionate amounts of ingredients (regardless of their quality), I’m impressed with their technical pizza making abilities.
However, I feel strongly that good pizza, at a minimum, must be some sort of respectable attempt at making good bread or in these 2 cases, a good cracker. The potential debate about this point concerning pizzerias like Candlelite and Romano’s and their cracker-thin crust has more to do with how important the flavor of a good cracker matters to a pizza or not.
I like a bland water cracker as much as the next guy but usually it is acting as an organic plate for carrying morsels of goodness, like a wonderful pate or some sort of stinky cheese. The key point, though, is that the crust supports something of serious quality. Otherwise, if it has no redeeming characteristics, what’s its value?
The cracker crust at Candlelite should be looked at in the same light. Its absolute and utter lack of flavor apparently is not an important concern to the integrity of the pizza for either its creator or their fans. I didn’t run across any problems with an undercooked crust since we ordered it well done, as some others have complained.
As far as their other topping ingredients, I was disappointed to say the least. The cheese was rubbery and flavorless. It never helps to use ridiculous amounts of low grade cheese. Hence, the indigestion after dinner.
The sauce was overly sweet and thick, (much like Ragu Spaghetti sauce).
Flavorless crust topped with poor ingredients won’t ever make a good pizza, in any form or style, coming from any
region, no matter how sensational their execution might be. Candlelite falls into this category.
Now, the great news.
I want to thank the people at Romano’s for reinvigorating my passion for the pursuit of great Chicago pizza. I take pride in the fact that their cheese ball décor and music, (which obviously hasn’t been changed in years) didn’t prejudice my love for their pizza in any way.
Like Candlelite, Romano’s also has a cracker-thin crust. The difference being that I could greatly enjoy eating their cracker crust on its own. Its flavor and texture is sensational for this type of pizza.
But what I most enjoyed about Romano’s is their ability to moderate the amount of toppings. I often times feel nauseous after about 4-5 small pieces of pie, which was not the case, having eaten a lot more pizza than that here.
I’m not quite sure if they are using better ingredients than your average pizzeria in Chicago but I do know that its ratio of crust to toppings sets it apart from every other pizzeria that I've have tried here so far.
The sauce had a nice vibrancy to it, not being overly sweet.
If you like cracker thin pizza, Romano’s is worth the trek out to Des Plaines.