What better way to open 2012 than with a visit to my favorite restaurant of 2011 . . . finally, for brunch! For New Year's Day, friends suggested having brunch at The Publican, which was a great idea. In spite of the big holiday crowd, it was a gen-U-ine throwdown. When I made the reservation, I was asked if I wanted the Grand Seafood Collection, which was only available via pre-order. I said yes and once we were seated, that's how our meal began . . .
Grand Seafood CollectionThe tower is brought to the table unassembled. Here, the top tier gets put in place amidst some "oohs & aahs,' and looks of wonderment from tatterdemalion, Pigmon and MasterEgg.
Grand Seafood CollectionA look from slightly above.
Bottom LevelEast Coast Oysters and West Coast Oysters with Smoked Roe
Middle LevelCold, boiled shrimp, littleneck clams and crab
Upper LevelCrab, Whole Lobster and Razor Clams
Honestly, the seafood was even better than it looks in these shots. It was pristine from top to bottom. trixie-pea declared that every meal should start with a seafood tower like this one, a sentiment with which I wholeheartedly agree.
Razor ClamThis was sensational -- sweet and slightly briney with a perfectly tender chew.
Cracked Crab on CrackersPrepared lovingly by Trixie-Pea for others at the table to enjoy.
Bloody Mary and Jolly Pumpkin Oro de CalabazaI'm not normally a bloody mary fan (or a vodka fan) but I had to have one. I loved the spiciness and the house pickles. As for the beer, I had 3 of them, so I guess they were ok.
Earlier, I had an Allagash Curio, which was also very tasty.
Frites with Fried EggsThese were sent to the table by the kitchen and they were as great as ever. The frites were invitingly crispy on the outside and tender within. The eggs were just full of intense, egg flavor, which was true of all the eggs we were served at this meal.
Hoppin' John | duck confit, black-eyed peas, cabbage and rice
A great rendition, with perfectly cooked components, including light, fluffy rice and black-eyed peas, which really made the dish a huge success. The duck confit was as good as any I can remember having in a long time.
Smoked Sablefish | fromage blanc, cucumber, radishes, beets and Sam's 3-seed bagel
A stunner. The fish was sweetly smokey, delectably oily and it broke apart easily with the touch of a fork. I loved the toasted bagel, too.
Maple-Glazed Pork Shoulder | sunny side up egg, rapini, grits and pickled red onions
Great balance here as the not-too-sweet shoulder married up nicely with the pickled onions. I also loved the grits, which were perfectly cooked and full of flavor. The rapini was a great accent of bitterness.
Burton's Maple Syrup-Braised Publican BaconAre you fracking kidding me?
Braised Lamb | fried egg, golden turnips, chickpea flatbread and piri-piri
Tender and very flavorful lamb. Nice heat and great flatbread, too.
Bucatini Alla Carbonara | bacon, egg and parmesan
Expertly cooked pasta and an extremely flavorful 'ragout' made this dish a winner. My son allowed me one bite and even then, he wasn't happy about having to share.
Spicy Pork RindsThese were also sent out for us by the kitchen and they were tasty as always. I didn't use up a whole bunch of real estate on them, as I've had them many times before and the table was filled with items I'd never tried before.
Pecan Sticky BunBlueberry-Almond Coffee CakeBoth desserts -- comped by our server -- were very tasty but I basically had a bite of each, as I was really maxed out by that point. About 2 hours later, I was wishing I'd brought them home!
As Trix said during our meal, New Year's Day brunch is one where places can (and often do) easily phone it in. Instead, the kitchen at the Publican was serving delicious, imaginative, and memorable dishes. As has always been the case with my experiences at the Publican, ingredients were not only distinctive but also of superior quality. I was struck by how great everything we ate was and also by how many more tempting items were on the menu that we didn't even get to try. I also have to say that service was nothing short of phenomenal. I know I wouldn't want to work as hard as these folks did on New Year's Day and I truly admire their professionalism.
So, not only did I finally get to the Publican for brunch, it turned out to be a fantastic way to start 2012 . . . spending it with my family and great friends, enjoying awesome food. My only concern is that I've already had my best meal of 2012 because it'll be hard to top this one.
=R=
Same planet, different world