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Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance

Beef: From Plains to Plate
Follow the Cattlemen’s Trail to Savory Midwest Beef Traditions

October 23-25, 2009


Image courtesy of Hammond, Indiana Public Library

Kendall College
900 North Branch Street, Chicago – FREE PARKING
(West of Halsted Street, North of Chicago Avenue)

Celebrate Midwestern beef foodways, from the desolate plains to meat processors who packed, wrapped and shipped their meat provisioning the global market.

Registration Information
Founder's Dinner

Navy Culinary "A" School Tour
Maxwell Street Tour
Culinary Curiosities

Recommended:

$75 for Friday's beef cutting demonstration and Saturday’s symposium. Save $10!

Friday, October 23rd:

$10 for tour and luncheon at Great Lakes Naval Culinary "A" School in Great Lakes, IL
$35 for beef cutting demonstration at Kendall College
$100 for Founder's Dinner fundraiser at Kendall College (business attire)

Saturday, October 24th from 9 AM to 4 PM

$50 for symposium including lunch and refreshments.

Sunday, October 25th at 10 AM

$5 for Culinary Curiosities tour at Kendall College (Limit 20)
$5 for Maxwell Street tour. Food purchased separately.

Payment by BrownPaperTickets or check.

There are a limited number of student discount passes, please contact greatermidwestfoodways@gmail.com.

Planned Events
(small changes may occur)

Presenter biographies


Friday, October 23rd, from 11 AM to 1 PM at Great Lakes, IL (Limit 20)

Early arrivals may consider taking A Tour of the Naval Culinary "A" School, then dine as a sailor. Transportation to Great Lakes, Illinois is not included. There is convenient transportation by Metra North Line to Great Lakes station. Detailed information here.

Friday, October 23rd, from 4 PM until 6:30 PM at Kendall College

Beef cutting demonstration of a side of beef donated by the National Cattlemen's Association. All those primals pieced together, picked apart and discussed by Kari Underly.



Friday, October 23rd, 6:30 PM cocktails, 7:00 PM dinner at Kendall College
Founder's Dinner fundraiser (business attire)


Saturday, October 24th, from 9 AM to 4 PM at Kendall College

8 AM - Registration

8:15 AM - Tour of Kendall's Culinary School

9:00 AM Conference commences

- Welcome - Bruce Kraig

- The beef industry yesterday, today and tomorrow.
Keynote Speaker: Dell Allen, PhD in Animal Science, Michigan State University

This presentation takes a look at the history of the beef industry in the U.S. from the time the Spanish Conquistadors brought the first cattle into North America up to today. This presentation highlights important events and times in the industry, including some of the influential people who made important contributions in moving it forward.

- Ranch to Feedlot to Packing House
Midwestern State Beef Councils. A panel of beef producers speaking on the evolution of beef production in the Midwest.

Cow-Calf
Dave Hamilton, Thedford, Nebraska

Feedlots
Steve Foglesong, President-elect, National Cattlemen's Beef Association

"Animal Husbandry" Practices
Dr. Ben Wileman, Beef Cattle Institute, Kansas State University

- Grass-fed beef (Re-)discovering traditional farming for todays consumers,
Klaus Weber, PhD of Northwestern University

Only 20 years ago, the term "grass-fed beef" was known only to cattle ranchers and livestock commodity analysts. It was a technical term used primarily to describe meat of inferior quality and lower price that had not followed the standard process of production in the United States. Under the conventional system, cattle are taken from smaller family farms across the Mid-West and fattened or "finished" in centralized feedlots on a diet of corn. Today, however, grass-fed meat and dairy products sell at a premium and are served in high-end restaurants. Food writers like Michael Pollan praise its virtues. Historically, the movement for purely grass-fed meat arose in opposition to a system of industrial agriculture that had become dominant after World War II and almost eliminated regional variety in farming and meat products due to breeds, forage and ranching knowledge. It also cut the connection between local meat producers and customers. The presentation will address a) the history of meat production and cattle ranching, b) the differences between grass-fed and conventional beef and their deeper foundations in cultural understanding of the meaning of food, and finally c) how the modern market for grass-fed beef as a specialty product became possible through the work of pioneering ranchers and consumer activists.

- Certified Angus Beef: "The Angus Confusion,"
Mark McCully, Assistant Vice-President for supply development for Certified Angus Beef LLC

The word "Angus" simply refers to a breed of cattle. But there’s more to great beef than just being Angus. While others may say Angus, do not confuse the type of cattle with the proven brand name. The world’s first and premium brand of Angus beef is the Certified Angus Beef® brand with 10 strict specifications that provide the Science Behind the Sizzle™.

- Chicago Stockyard's History
Russell Lewis, Chicago History Museum

- Halal (and Kosher) in the Heartland,
Larry Jacoby, Shepherd Song Farm


Lunch - Beef dishes made from primal and subprimal cuts.


- From Beef Producer to the Consumer,
John Huston, Executive Vice President Emeritus, National Cattlemen’s Beef Association

- Weeknight - Ground or chopped beef
- "How Ground Beef on a Bun Conquered the World," Andy Smith

Ground beef was not a important part of the American diet until the late nineteenth century, when it captured the attention of Midwestern street vendors and restaurateurs. Within a decade, a Midwestern street vendor put ground beef in a bun and the hamburger was born. It quickly became America's most popular sandwich, but it even soared to greater heights when a Midwestern short order cook launched White Castle and a multimixer salesman globalized McDonald's.


- Dining Out: Steakhouses
Chef Hans Aeschbacher
Steakhouse Purveyor - Allen Brothers
Culinary Historian: Barbara Kuck


Sunday, October 25th, from 10 AM to Noon
You may choose from either:

- A Tour of "Culinary Curiosities" exhibit at Kendall College (Limit: 20)
Guided by Curator Victoria Matranga. Review a collection of antique food production equipment. Link to more detailed information for "Culinary Curiosities".

- Maxwell Street Market Tour
Guided by David Hammond & Bruce Kraig. This is an open air market. Dress appropriately for conditions. This tour will be conducted whether in rain or shine. Link to more detailed Maxwell Street Market Tour

www.GreaterMidwestFoodways.com

Saveur made mention of Beef: From Plains to Plate in the October Agenda (Issue #123, page #17). Very cool, congrats.

I was pretty darn thrilled, too.

Cool. You're famous.

I'm simply glad the organization is getting on the radar.

We're here for the long haul having just incorporated as a not-for-profit and having applied to the IRS for a 501(c)3. Knock on wood, Greater Midwest Foodways is in for the long haul.

Next year, the symposium will be, "The Great Depression: It's Food and Culture." That's a working title, but I have already begun doing research. Any ideas or avenues to explore, please advise.

Regards,

Only thing I know for sure, my dad having worked in the candy business for many years, is that the Great Depression was a real bonanza for candy companies. Maybe you couldn't go out for dinner, but you could get a big box of Milk Duds (which came onto the market just before the Depression).

Hi,

Or an ice cream ... Prince Castle-Cock Robin was founded during the Depression.

At the Illinois State Fair, I learned about a salad made from Spanish peanuts, cabbage and a sleeve of Saltines ("The poor man's croutons.") ground through a sausage grinder, then bound together with a boiled dressing.

Regards,

Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance

Beef: From Plains to Plate
Follow the Cattlemen’s Trail to Savory Midwest Beef Traditions


Image courtesy of Hammond, Indiana Public Library

Kendall College
900 North Branch Street, Chicago – FREE PARKING
(West of Halsted Street, North of Chicago Avenue)

Kendall College's Chef Benjamin Browning presented his menu for the Founder's Dinner today:

Founder’s Dinner

Friday, October 23, 2009

Kendall College

Appetizer
Roasted bone marrow, oxtail marmalade, toasted porcini brioche

Soup
Beef consommé, bacon custard
Sautéed brussel sprouts

More beef
Carpaccio of beef, chilies, crème fraiche, adler wood smoked salt cracker

Sorbet
Tomato-rosemary

Entrée
Wood roasted loin of prime beef, roasted root vegetables, ramp pisteu

Pastry
Dark chocolate Marquis, poached mission figs, goat cheese powder


Registration Information

www.GreaterMidwestFoodways.com

Made with beefsteak tomatoes, I presume.

Very good, I hadn't thought about that!

Regards,

Just bought my tix for the Butcher Demo and Founders' Dinner on Friday, and the Saturday Symposium, too. I'm really looking forward to this.

=R=

The eternal question of the suburbanite -- is there parking for the Maxwell Street tour? Or is one better off attempting public transportation?

Thanks! I think this event will please you very much.


People are constantly flowing in and out of the market. Persistence gets you a parking spot. Allow yourself extra time to hunt one down and walk to the market.

You may want to consult earlier Maxwell Street tour at the new location for parking and transportation ideas.

Regards,

Hi,

An update on speakers, there was a speaker cancellation. Now joining the ranks is:

Halal (and Kosher) in the Heartland,
Larry Jacoby, Shepherd Song Farm

Have you ever wondered about halal and kosher meat products? This presentation will explore the differences between halal and kosher and what your customer means when they ask for halal certification. The ethnic market offers new opportunities for producers and retailers.

When I contact Larry to inquire about joining us, I thought it would be a 15-minute phone call. It was more than an hour. I learned more about Kosher and Halal processing than I had ever before. He is also involves with other ethnic communities such as Somalis and Hmong.

His bio is very interesting, too.



Regards,

This is the kick-off event for the Beef Symposium this weekend.

From Primal to Cut: A Beef Cutting Demonstration

Presented by Kari Underly
Friday, October 23, 2009, 4 PM until 6:30 PM

Kendall College
900 North Branch Street, Chicago – FREE PARKING
(West of Halsted Street, North of Chicago Avenue)

Program Information

Registration Information


Cutting demonstration of a side of beef donated by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. All those primals pieced together, picked apart and discussed by Kari Underly.

Attend this interactive live cutting demonstration and learn how the seven primals are processed into subprimals. You will observe firsthand how these subprimals are cut into not only familiar traditional cuts, but also today’s newer, healthier cuts. Whether you are in the foodservice industry or a food enthusiast, you will be sure to wow your colleagues with new "cutting edge" beef knowledge.

If you have any questions or wish to register, please PM Cathy2 or e-mail GreaterMidwestFoodways@gmail.com.

Directions: From the Kennedy Expressway (I-90/I-94) exit at Division Street and turn left (east). Turn right on Halsted. Turn right on N. North Branch Street. Kendall College campus will be on your left.



Information on other events:

Founder's Dinner
Navy Culinary "A" School Tour
Maxwell Street Tour
Culinary Curiosities

HI,

Very nice article in the Sun Times for the Beef symposium: http://www.suntimes.com/lifestyles/food ... 09.article

There is still room for those who'd like to attend.

Regards,

Saturday's lunch:

The Sun Times article was great.

Lunch looks excellent.

Really looking forward to this event.

And can hardly express the extent of my gratitude for the time and effort Cathy2 has put into pulling this together.

Hi,

An interesting intersection of the fates today. I had a late lunch at Kendall sitting at a table with chef-instructors. I was talking to them a bit about Beef and the tour of the Navy's culinary school. The Chef sitting next to me designed the 22-day curriculum used by the Navy presently.

I told him the school would be closing in 2010 in favor of an all-Department of Defense culinary school at Fort Lee, Virginia. He said seven years ago, they were trying to get out from under this cross-service training.

Programs printed for this weekend. Now I hope Greater Midwest's inaugural newsletter leaves the printer, too.

It's never too late to decide to attend. Worse comes to worse, you can have my seat.

Regards,

Looking forward to this weekend's events. Hope to make it Friday and Saturday.

Awesome event. The speakers were great. (After some of the photos of those beautiful ranches, I was ready to move to the country.) The all-beef lunch was magnificent. Simply a terrific event.

Thanks to all involved, but most especially to the remarkable Cathy2. Brava.

LTH,

I very much enjoyed Fridays beef cutting demo by Kari Underly. Entertaining, interesting, I learned, laughed and the 2.5 hour demo seemed like 30 minutes when finished.

If the remainder of the Beef: From Plains to Plate program was of the same caliber, and I am sure it was, it was a very successful weekend for the Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance. Kudos to Cathy2 and all involved.

Kari Underly




Enjoy,
Gary

Friday and Saturday were full of tasty bits of beef-related info, punctuated by some stellar presentatations. It was so cool on Saturday to talk about meat all morning, then break and eat meat, then go back to talking about meat all afteroon.

Chicago Tribune's Monica Eng reports on her experiences at Beef: From Plains to Plate

Beef backers steak out their claims: Grass vx corn debate well done

Breaking it down: Master butcher provides beefy information

Kari Underly's demonstration was great. It would be hard to imagine anyone doing a better job. I learned a lot, including what some of these newer cuts (e.g., boneless short ribs and ranch steak) really are. Those who couldn't attend should try to catch it if it's ever offered again. Meanwhile, her book should be published in the not too distant future. I saw the proofs and it looks fantastic, like nothing else available. Here's some information on The Art of Beef Cutting.


It was a very good program. Unfortunately Larry Jacoby, speaking on Halal and Kosher processing, had to cancel due to illness. That was one of the talks I was most looking forward to. Maybe Cathy2 will be able to get him to Chicago for a full presentation one of these days. Another disappointment was that Steve Chiappetti (of Viand, 155 E Ontario) failed to show up for his scheduled talk without so much as a phone call, not the first time he's pulled that stunt with Culinary Historians.

Beef: From Plains to Plate
Follow the Cattlemen’s Trail to Savory Midwest Beef Traditions

This event was recorded as part of the Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance Third Annual Symposium "Beef: From Plains to Plate". Recorded Saturday, October 24, 2009 at Kendall College.

Celebrate Midwestern beef foodways by tracing the historic odyssey of all-American meat from the windswept plains of the heartland to meat processors in "cities on the make," like Chicago, where it was packed, wrapped and sent to dinner plates around the globe. Join the Greater Midwest Foodways Alliance (GMFA) on that journey Beef: From Plains to the Plate – Follow the Cattlemen’s Trail to Savory Midwest Beef Traditions.


Beef: The Beef Industry Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow

Listen for this symposium's Opening Remarks by Bruce Kraig, followed by the morning's keynote talk with Dell Allen, PhD, “The beef industry yesterday, today and tomorrow.” This presentation takes a look at the history of the beef industry in the U.S. from the time the Spanish Conquistadors brought the first cattle into North America up to today. This presentation highlights important events and times in the industry, including some of the influential people who made important contributions in moving it forward.


Beef: Ranch to Feedlot to Packing House

Central Region State Beef Councils presents a panel of beef producers speaking on the evolution of beef production in the Midwest. Dave Hamilton of Thedford, Nebraska speaks on Cow-Calf production, raising calves to maturity
before finishing at feedlots. President-elect of the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, Steve Foglesong, speaks on Feedlots. Dr. Ben Wileman from the Beef Cattle Institute of Kansas State University presents on modern Animal Husbandry Practices.


Beef: Grass-fed Beef and Certified Angus Beef

Kathryn L Heinze of Northwestern University presented “Grass-fed beef: (Re-) discovering traditional farming for todays consumers.” Only 20 years ago, the term "grass-fed beef" was known only to cattle ranchers and livestock commodity analysts. It was a technical term used primarily to describe meat of inferior quality and lower price that had not followed the standard process of production in the United States. Today, however, grass-fed meat and dairy products sell at a premium and are served in high-end restaurants. Historically, the movement for purely grass-fed meat arose in opposition to a system of industrial agriculture that had become dominant after World War II and almost eliminated regional variety in farming and meat products due to breeds, forage and ranching knowledge.

Followed by Mark McCully, Assistant Vice-President for supply development for Certified Angus Beef LLC, on “Certified Angus Beef: The Angus Confusion.”

The word "Angus" simply refers to a breed of cattle. But there’s more to great beef than just being Angus. While others may say Angus, do not confuse the type of cattle with the proven brand name. The world’s first and premium brand of Angus beef is the Certified Angus Beef® brand with 10 strict specifications that provide the Science Behind the Sizzle™.


Beef: Everything But the Squeal: Chicago’s Union Stock Yards

Russell Lewis of the Chicago History Museum posits that Chicago’s Union Stock Yards was the result of the fusion of urbanization and industrialization, and it represented one of the greatest industrial innovations of the nineteenth century. Meatpacking was one of the trio of Chicago industries—along with grain and lumber—that catapulted Chicago onto the national and world stage. This presentation chronicles the rise of the Union Stock Yards and its place in Chicago’s history.


Beef: From the Beef Producer to the Consumer

John Huston is Executive Vice President Emeritus of the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association. John Huston chronicles the impact of the National Live Stock & Meat Board (headquartered in Chicago until the late 1990’s) programs, research and initiatives over the years on consumer’s knowledge of beef preparation, nutrient content, purchasing, handling and safety.


Beef: Everyday Food - Ground or chopped beef

Andrew F. Smith presents “How Ground Beef on a Bun Conquered the World.” Ground beef was not a important part of the American diet until the late nineteenth century, when it captured the attention of Midwestern street vendors and restaurateurs. Within a decade, a Midwestern street vendor put ground beef in a bun and the hamburger was born. It quickly became America's most popular sandwich, but it even soared to greater heights when a Midwestern short order cook launched White Castle and a multimixer salesman globalized McDonald's.

Peter Engler reports on his research on “The Big Baby: A Burger Style from Chicago’s Southwest Side.” Despite increasing homogenization of the American hamburger by the large chains, regional variants persist and thrive. He focuses on one local example—the Big Baby double cheeseburger—discussing its origin, spread and evolution.


Dining Out—Steakhouse Panel

Culinary Historian Barbara Kuck speaks on “Great Midwest Steak Houses from Stage Coach Days to Present.”

Chef Hans Aeschbacher presented on “The Steak House Chef’s Vital Role in Selecting, Preparing and Serving the Finest Cuts of Beef.”

Bruce Kraig offered closing remarks and announced next year’s program: The Great Depression: It’s Food and Culture.


Beef: From Primal to Cut, a beef cutting demonstration

Cutting demonstration of a side of beef donated by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. All those primals pieced together, picked apart and discussed by Kari Underly.

Attendees observe a live cutting demonstration and learn how the seven primals are processed into subprimals. They see firsthand how these subprimals are cut into not only familiar traditional cuts, but also today’s newer, healthier cuts. Whether you are in the foodservice industry or a food enthusiast, you will be sure to wow your colleagues with new "cutting edge" beef knowledge.

Recorded Friday, October 23, 2009 at Kendall College.