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Oaxaca is Cooking!

Oaxaca is Cooking!
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  • Post #31 - February 25th, 2014, 8:03 am
    Post #31 - February 25th, 2014, 8:03 am Post #31 - February 25th, 2014, 8:03 am
    The latest on the Voynich Manuscript is that it appears to be middle eastern...

    A more useful book may be Diana Kennedy's "Oaxaca al Gusto" -- a huge, lavishly illustrated tome with recipes organized by Oaxacan micro-regions. It's a bit frustrating as there's no master index (finding, say, an empanada recipe requires flipping through many pages), and the photos often don't match the recipes on the adjacent pages... but the research going into it and the throroughness of it all is amazing.
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #32 - February 25th, 2014, 10:27 am
    Post #32 - February 25th, 2014, 10:27 am Post #32 - February 25th, 2014, 10:27 am
    Thanks for the wonderful post. It will be very helpful as we are going for 3 nights in December. You mentioned a guide. Did you hire a private guide? If you were happy, I would love their contact information.
    "I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day." Frank Sinatra
  • Post #33 - February 27th, 2014, 8:27 am
    Post #33 - February 27th, 2014, 8:27 am Post #33 - February 27th, 2014, 8:27 am
    Just so everyone knows, I replied to RevrendAndy directly by PM. We really liked our guide and I would be more than happy to share his info with anyone else as well.

    Also, I agree with JoelF re Diana Kennedy's book. I'm now the proud owner of about four or five different Oaxacan cookbooks. Each has its strengths but Kennedy's is in a class by itself. For anyone who wants is, btw, I actually sat down and created an index for the book. I'd be happy to send a copy to anyone who's interested. The lack of an index in a very fancy, very pricey book is absolutely inexcusable.
    Gypsy Boy

    "I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)
  • Post #34 - January 8th, 2015, 3:45 pm
    Post #34 - January 8th, 2015, 3:45 pm Post #34 - January 8th, 2015, 3:45 pm
    Oaxaca is amazing. The town is beautiful, the people very friendly, although not much English spoken, and food-oh my!

    Our 1st dinner was La Teca, which may be a tiny hole in the wall, but they serve amazing food. They offered us a prix fixe tasting which was pretty inexpensive and included their greatest hits- garnachas, chili relleno taco, malote de platano with plantain, tamales elote with chicken, beef coloradita, pork with some kind of great sauce, pollo mole negro, and papas. This was all $21. Our 1st taste of authentic Oaxacan cooking was extraordinary. The mama owner came by after dinner and chatted with my wife, who speaks Spanish and it turns out she was invited to cook at the Vatican a few years ago. I highly recommend this to everyone.

    We hired a guide for the next day, Sebastian Chino, who gave us a nice tour to Monte Alban, a pretty church in Tlacochuhuaya , and Santa Maria el Tule, home of this unreal Tule tree. Our guide was knowledgable and spoke very good English. GypsyBoy I tried to contact your guide but he had been out of town for weeks and didn't return my email till the start of my trip which was too late. Sebastian stopped for lunch in Santa Maria near the tree at a mercato that had a slew of family food stalls. We had chapulines, the small ones, a tlayuda, and quesadilla pollo with Amarillo mole, which was great. I washed it down with horchata with a scoop of tuna(no not the fish, but a fruit). Many places were booked that night, Xmas, and we ended up at Catedral, for some more authentic local cuisine, although in a nicer setting. We enjoyed sopa Catedral, suckling pig Tehuantepec, and Chichilo mole with short ribs.

    The next day we did some grazing at the Benito Juarez market. We had chicken with mole Amarillo(not nearly as good at Santa Maria) in the market itself which was good, however in another annex we sampled carne asada and puerco that was sliced thin and grilled, accompanied with lots of sides. This was very tasty.

    Our last dinner was Origen, everyone’s favorite on the board and it didn’t disappoint. It was nice to try some exciting creative contemporary Oaxacan cooking. They started us with a small gratis gazpacho. I could’ve eaten a bowl. We continued with chicken liver mousse, marvelous roast quail in escabeche, grilled octopus salad, huitlacoche risotto, and dorado sarandeado.

    We would love to go back sometime and check out some other areas outside the city and dine on more of the best food in Mexico.
    "I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day." Frank Sinatra
  • Post #35 - January 9th, 2015, 12:33 pm
    Post #35 - January 9th, 2015, 12:33 pm Post #35 - January 9th, 2015, 12:33 pm
    Sorry my guide was not around, you would have enjoyed him. But I'm glad yours worked out well. The Juarez market is pretty impressive (as is the 20 de Noviembre) but I'm really looking forward to spending an entire day, next time, in the Abastos market. And ditto: an amazing city and area; we can't wait to return.
    Gypsy Boy

    "I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)
  • Post #36 - April 5th, 2018, 10:28 pm
    Post #36 - April 5th, 2018, 10:28 pm Post #36 - April 5th, 2018, 10:28 pm
    Oaxaca is indeed amazing but food hasn't been the focus of my current visit, and frankly, I find most of it kind of disappointing. But after having been here for about a week, I do have a few things that are worth recommending. The first, 'discovered' by our friend Pigmon, is a little breakfast place in the Centro, right on the Parque Cozzatti, called La Nonna . . .

    Image
    La Nonna
    Valentín Gómez Farias 212, Oaxaca City

    There's no real menu. You just walk in, see what they have to offer and order up. There are 2 counters; one in front and one in back, to the right . . .

    Image
    Front Counter Breakfast Offerings

    Image
    My Plate
    Clockwise from 11: chili relleno, huevos in salsa verde, chicharrones in salsa roja, chorizo & eggs, green beans & eggs

    Also served were warm corn tortillas (made to order) and frijoles negros. We also had some croquetas. This was a delicious and hearty way to start the day. And breakfast for 4 was 420 pesos (about $23 USD).

    A few more to come as time allows . . .

    =R=

    La Nonna
    Ejido del Centro
    Valentín Gómez Farias 212
    RUTA INDEPENDENCIA
    68000 Centro, Oax.
    01 951 513 5929
    Why don't you take these profiteroles and put them up your shi'-ta-holes? --Jemaine & Bret

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #37 - April 13th, 2018, 1:43 pm
    Post #37 - April 13th, 2018, 1:43 pm Post #37 - April 13th, 2018, 1:43 pm
    Caldo de Piedra recently popped up at Quiote in Logan Square. By coincidence, I was able to eat there just days before the pop-up happened . . .

    Image
    Caldo de Piedra

    As you can see in the video below, a red-hot river stone is carefully placed into the jicara and it subsequently cooks the soup. After about 5 minutes, I removed my stone, which left the fish and shrimp just about perfectly cooked. Some people just leave the stone in there or remove the proteins.


    "Stone Soup" Combination with Robala and Camarones

    When the jicaras are delivered to the table, they are still roiling . . .


    Jicara bubbling at the table

    It probably goes without saying that in addition to the soup, tortillas were made to order and served along with it . . .

    Image
    Making the tortillas

    I thought it was really cool and I liked it, but I can't say I loved it. Still, if you're in Oaxaca, it's a great place to check out.

    =R=

    Caldo De Piedra
    km 11.9 Carretera Oaxaca al Tule
    Tlalixtac de Cabrera, Mexico
    +52 951 517 8318
    Why don't you take these profiteroles and put them up your shi'-ta-holes? --Jemaine & Bret

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #38 - May 2nd, 2018, 12:58 pm
    Post #38 - May 2nd, 2018, 12:58 pm Post #38 - May 2nd, 2018, 12:58 pm
    The colors of the food are so intoxicating... i love it!

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