We spent the holidays in San Diego and came up with a couple of very solid dinner spots. One of the best and most astonishing meals of my life were had at Bracero Cocina, which could not have been better on any dimension, from drinks to food to service. Atmosphere is not really my focus in general. I'd put Bracero in the hip and happening category, (one that I no longer match demographically) for those who care. Location is favorable in Little Italy, with valet parking.
So, what did I love? First, the Margarita. A new tradition for us, made with Mandarine Napoleon and Tequila Ocho. Subtle, powerful, and not too sweet.
The appetizer - sort of a mixed poke with avocado. The fish tasted like it was caught that morning and the treatment did not mask the freshness.
The entrees ranged from tacos (my husband was in rapture with all 6 meat options) to my whole grilled snapper and my daughter's lamb shank. The snapper was charred on a wood fire, half off-the-bone, with the other half intact, set atop a little tomato-infused vinaigrette and clouds of potato puree with shavings of roasted crisp garlic. The potato clouds were themselves a curiosity, neither heavy nor oily, but light, as if a potato and an egg white had mated and produced fluffy babies. It seems to me there was something green on the plate as well, but I was blown away by the freshness and perfect cook on the snapper.
The lamb shank was a curious beast. Enormous and ebony blackened, it was smoky and tender and served under a sheaf of some pale yellow straws that tasted of corn. Turns out they were corn sprouts. Has anyone here seen them before? I'd be interested to hear the details.
We could not do dessert. And, regrettably, we could not return for lunch, when they serve birria. However, we did finish a bottle of a Mexican wine from Baja California that the server had recommended. It was terrific and we searched online for it, but it is not available. Another reason to visit Bracero Cocina on our next trip to San Diego.
Another spot I can recommend is Juniper and Ivy. We were there on a busy night, Christmas Eve, and it worked well to sit on the terrace under heat lamps to have a quiet table and conversation. (This is another hip and happening spot.) The amuse was a petite gougere with cheese and chives. I found my swordfish astonishing. It was a thin escalope of pale fish studded with charred knobs of something - what were those delicious blobs? A bit of reflection yielded the answer: Jerusalem artichokes cooked in embers, no doubt. A persimmon dessert was equally rustic and refined, and the perfect ending to a Christmas Eve: A nubbly textured cake, Yule-log style, with a persimmon mousse filling and a crust of not-too-sweet cocoa nibs. The other guests enjoyed their food, but I was pretty wrapped up in my own plates. . . sorry.
A stop at Point Loma Seafoods was good for lunch. A breaded halibut sandwich on fresh sourdough was very good. Other things I've had there in the past, (such as the Dungeness cocktail) have been good as well. I did not realize that there was a dining room where you can take your order to eat. It's cozy in December, but I would have been willing to eat my sandwich at one of the outdoor tables.
The Drunken Goat and Underbelly (for ramen and some izakaya-type dishes) are also good, if not in the same category as Bracero Cocina and Juniper and Ivy. Also, if you are cooking, as we were, (thanks, AirBnb!), I can recommend the North Park butcher shop, Heart and Trotter, where I scored an organic turkey and some house-made sausage. I also saw a couple leaving with a whole pig and a whole lamb for the spit. (Sigh!)
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.