I had
a really memorable dining experience on the patio
a couple of weeks ago after
a six month-or-so hiatus. I mentioned the garden in
this thread, which is
a working vegetable garden to serve the restaurant.
I'll go out on
a limb and say that, apart from either Cafe Spiaggia or Spiaggia, this is the closest approximation to authentic Italian dining in the city.
A two- or three-course progression will take you from simple, balanced flavors, to more complex saucing and textures. We started with the prosciutto and figs and the prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella, which, along with
a glass of prosecco, was
a balanced, light way to ease into the meal. We split
a pasta course as second course. Terragusto's bolognese had nothing on the one served at
A Tavola that night - meaty but balanced and textured. For entrees, I had the short rib with saffron risotto (which is always advertised as
a special, but it's been
a special for
a very long time), and my dining companion had the beef tenderloin with rosemary potatoes and sauteed spinach.
I have grown to really love this short rib. It's
a little heavy (but it's
a braised short rib - it should be). But any heaviness is balanced with
a refreshing citrusy lemon gremolata garnish and the aromatic saffron risotto. Even though the risotto is "just" an accompaniment (as opposed to the main dish), it always prepared correctly,
a little loose and soupy with rice that retains some firmness. More importantly, from what I can tell, the kitchen refrains from using short cuts to achieve the creamy texture through the use of inappropriate additives, like cream.
When you couple the authentic flavors and careful execution of the dishes (especially the pastas) with the garden outdoor setting, you do feel not
a small bit transported to Italy (if you can ignore the hipsters and chatter of Ukrainian around you).
Kennyz wrote:
While service is professional, I found just a touch of Terragusto-like pretension, with an over-the-top explanation of the chef's pedigree and an albeit shorter speech about traditional course progression in Italian dining. I realize there's a fine line here between pretension and useful explanations that help avoid surprises about portion size, and I'm sure other people would disagree that a Tavola crosses to the wrong side of that line.
A note on service: The somewhat affected, pretentious service has been dialed down significantly, so much so that I fear that someone at this restaurant has read this thread, or was told about this thread. In fact, I had the server in question this night (the one Kenny and I were referring to), and he was much changed. It was as if he had to adjust the way he was communicating, and he wasn't quite comfortable with it. I felt
a little bad because he is, as I mentioned above,
a very earnest and well-meaning server. He did slip in
a mention about the chef's pedigree, but in
a more conversational tone. Instead of calling it down to you from the Ivory Tower as part of
a spiel, he brought it up at an appropriate time in
a conversation we were having with him, and in
a conversational tone, like "hey, the chef here has worked in Italy for x years, and he's really dedicated to what he does."
So, Kenny, if it was the "spiel" that was keeping you from returning to
A Tavola, it is now safe to return to the water, so to speak.