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  • - July 10th, 2011, 4:39 pm
    - July 10th, 2011, 4:39 pm Post #61 - July 10th, 2011, 4:39 pm
    Matt, I really appreciate your perspective. I went to Paris 1906 and thoroughly enjoyed it (and consider it one of my best meals of the year so far). I felt that there was a strong point of view and, yes, value proposition, if you may, with that menu: it gave 21st century diners a window into a way of cooking and dining that was not commonplace anymore but which provided the foundation for many of our contemporary culinary techniques. It was an impressively ambitious and ultimately very successful point of view. And the food was really, really good.

    That's why I struggle with "Tour of Thailand". The monicker itself connotes a survey, a guided journey, and, at least from this diner's perspective, that creates an expectation of a certain level of authenticity. Thai food is a cuisine that is based on flavors and textures that result from a complex interplay of chilis, fish paste, fish sauce, aromatics, herbs, pickling, etc. (as is the case in most of Southeast Asian cuisine, which I know, having grown up and travelled in the region extensively), a calibration and combination that result out of knowledge of and immersion in the culture and which cannot be readily learned from a cook book or from cooking school. Aroy, Spoon, TAC, etc. are restaurants with Thai chefs who have grown up and lived with these ingredients, flavor profiles, and indigenous cooking techniques. Paris 1906 replicated a specific time period in culinary history; Tour of Thailand, based on the menu and your review, seems to be aspiring to replicate a national cuisine within the Alinea template (exceptional service, thoughtful wine pairings, etc.). And for me replicating a national cuisine requires authenticity.

    Having said that I'm sure lots of people will enjoy Tour of Thailand, and that's great. And if their exposure to the cuisine at Next leads to a desire to explore our incomparable Thai restaurant scene, one of the best in the country, then that's even better.

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