My second Tour of Thailand, exactly 3 weeks after the first one, had been fine-tuned on just about every level. As much as I enjoyed the first trek, the second one rose well above the level of my initial expectations. Food and service had both been tightened up noticebly and frankly, as I diner I was better prepared for round 2. My first meal started at 10 pm, an hour about which I was excited. But after the second experience, a 6:30 start time, I realized that perhaps, even for me, a 10 pm launch was too late to fully enjoy the experience.
Punch | Batavia Arrack, Szigeti Sekt, guava, mango, papaya
Streetfood, Part 1 | roasted banana, prawn cake, sweet shrimp, fermented sausage, steamed bun
Fermented SausageSteamed BunI really "got it" this time. The bun was piping hot and the filling was flavorful and moist.
Roasted BananaPrawn CakeStreetfood, Part 2 | Grill Box
We were told that these grill boxes were given to Next by chef Michael Carlson of Schwa. At our first meal, it seemed more like a showpiece than anything else. This time, the box was throwing some serious heat and the skewers were sizzling atop the grate.
Grill Box | squid, chicken heart, strawberry
TabletopAfter the streetfood courses were concluded, the table was re-set with these orange cloths. We were told that in Thai culture, each day of the week is represented by a different God and that each God has its own color. Apparently, Thursday is orange.
After the table was re-set, we were summoned to the kitchen, where chef Dave Beran demo'd the som tum course for us . . .
Chef Beran begins the som tum by creating a paste from chilis and garlicMise en placeOnce the paste is properly formed, in a rough mortar, it's set asideGreen Papaya is sliced lengthwise and then sliced again into stripsGreen Mango is handled similarly to the papaya shown above, while Gypsy Boy looks onI found it impressive that after we were in the kitchen, our beverages were brought to us to sip during the demo.
The fruit and other ingredients (long beans, heirloom tomatoes, etc.) are placed in a second, smooth mortar and bruisedThe bruising conditions the fruit to hold the dressing.
The ingredients are mixed together in the final step of salad preparationThe Som Tom is placed into the serving vessels; empty crab shellsSom Tum | green papaya, green mango, salted crab
Prager Steinriegel, Federspiel, Wachau, Austria 2008Hot & Sour Broth | pork belly, tomato, ginger
Itsas Mendi, Hondarrabi Zuri, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Spain 2010This soup was nothing short of glorious this time around. It was tart, sweet, spicy, funky and well-rounded. The crispy, unctuous pork belly was brilliant again.
(Rice and) Relishes | salted duck egg, green mango, white radish
(front)I cannot say enough about this course, which blew me away both times through. I've never had anything like it and the relishes were all delicious, especially when paired with the tender, aromatic jasmine rice.
Relish | chili, shallot, garlic
Relish | tamarind, garlic, mint leaf
Relish | pickles
Relish | banana pepper, cucumber, chili, dried anchovy
Catfish | caramel sauce, celery, coriander root
I guess this course is the most polarizing course of the Thai menu in that it's been mentioned that it isn't really Thai. I'm definitely not knowledgeable enough to comment on that but it's delicious in its own right. The inclusion of the coriander root made it special for me. The caramel sauce was addictive and the little onions, which were deftly pickled, provided a nice, acidic counterpoint.
Beef Cheek | curry, peanut, nutmeg, kaffir lime
Half Acre, Horizon Ale, Chicago, ILThis dish was probably my favorite. I loved the ultra-tender cheek and the curry was fiery, rich and complex.
Watermelon-Lemongrass ElixirI loved this refreshing sipper, which bridged from savory to sweet.
CoconutDessert, soon to be revealed.
Coconut | corn, egg, licorice
Cusumano, Moscato Dello Zucco, Sicily 2007Damn! I scraped this coconut half completely clean. This dessert, which I thought had improved greatly since our previous visit, was spectacular.
Coconut | sorbet
Quite refreshing but the "other half" was the star of this course.
Dragonfruit | rose
Beautiful but this is just not my thing. Still, I appreciate the fact that it's being served and being served in a way with which chef has a genuine connection. To me, this dish is a welcome risk that just didn't work for me personally.
Banks RumI love Banks and love where it's positioned in the meal. A great call.
Tea | rooibos, palm sugar, milk
Very tasty but since I'm scared of caffeine, I took a sip and called it a night. However, I should have just asked about it because I've since come to learn that rooibos is caffeine-free. Oh well, next time.
My meal was delicious and entirely satisfying. Going a second time brought to light a couple of thoughts. First, knowing what to expect really helped me enjoy this meal more than the first one. The first time through, I was more focused on what course was coming next than anything else. It's just my nature to do that. It's similar to seeing a movie for the first time, when I'm mostly focused on the plot. Upon subsequent viewings, the nuances, craftsmanship and other details come into more clear light. That's when I can really appreciate them. I think that was also true here. I knew what to expect, so I didn't have to focus on that aspect at all. Instead, I was able to concentrate on and appreciate details that went past me on the first visit.
Secondly, I believe there was some empirical improvement in the meal and service. And why should there not be? It makes perfect sense, especially given the time frame, that in a 3-month run, things will improve later in the schedule. I think the staff at Next will, given the very nature of what it is, live in a state of permanent unsettledness. What an eternal challenge this will be for them. At the beginning of a menu, there are countless details -- both predictable and unforeseen -- that need to be ironed out. Then, just as the service reaches perfection, it's jettisonned for whatever comes next. As others have written, this is the only kitchen that could pull this off. Really, all it takes is an immensely talented and dedicated chef who's willing to work 18-hour days and a team who believes in him enough to follow him into battle day after day. Together, they roll that boulder up the hill over and over again and give their task meaning. In doing so, they distinguish themselves as excpetional in a universe populated by immensely talented people.
=R=
Same planet, different world